A Conversation With Nikolinka Angelova

In northeastern Bulgaria, in a house shaped by tradition and quiet artistry, I had the privilege of meeting Nikolinka Angelova, a master of Kapan embroidery (embroidery associated to a specific ethnographic region). Her work is immediately striking, but what stays with you is the depth of meaning woven into every stitch, her love for her work is a living expression of Bulgarian cultural heritage.

Across Bulgaria, embroidery has long served as a regional marker of identity, with techniques, colours, and symbols varying from one area to another. Traditions like Kapan embroidery were historically learned within the home, passed from one generation to the next. Today, as fewer people grow up practicing these skills, artisans like Nikolinka play an essential role in ensuring that this knowledge is not only preserved, but allowed to evolve and remain relevant in modern society.

Nikolinka spoke about embroidery not simply as decoration, but as a visual language passed down through generations. Each motif carries symbolism rooted in belief and superstition. Certain patterns, she explained, were traditionally sewn into garments to protect the wearer or the home from harm. Embroidery also marked important stages of life and social identity. Through floral motifs symbolising growth and abundance, or geometric designs representing unity and continuity, garments quietly communicated marital status, family ties, and community belonging.

Spending time with Nikolinka, it becomes clear how deeply committed she is to preserving Bulgaria’s cultural legacy. Her home has evolved into a kind of living museum, filled with embroidered pieces that reflect years of careful study and devotion. By reinterpreting traditional techniques and sharing their stories, she creates a meaningful link between past and present, making these traditions accessible to modern audiences.

For Nikolinka, these embroidered works deserve renewed attention and appreciation. Their value lies not only in careful preservation, but in being seen, understood, and engaged with. By bringing traditional embroidery into contemporary spaces, she encourages a deeper recognition of its artistic and cultural significance, allowing it to continue speaking to the present rather than existing only as a relic of the past.