The Influence Of South Asia On Western Fashion

South Asian culture possesses an undeniable magnetic force on global fashion. Intricate embroidery, delicate beading, graceful silhouettes, once woven into the fabric of history, have consistently found their way into the fashion world. However, these elements are often stripped of their rich cultural context and rebranded as "exotic" or "boho," with little recognition given to their origins.

This trend traces back centuries. During the colonial era ,from the 17th to 19th century, Indian textiles were at the heart of global trade. Fabrics such as Banarasi silk, Dhaka Muslin, Pashmina and so on were highly sought after for their unique designs, vibrant colours and high quality in European Markets. The British East India Company monopolised this trade exporting vast quantities to parts Europe. The demand for these exotic fabrics couples with British imposed restrictions on Indian textiles, led to bans and even a near of extinction of many traditional fabrics. Calico printing being replaced by mass production methods or the Changyra goat whose wool was used for pashmina facing near extinction from over production. Local populations suffered as their artistry was left undervalued and exploited. This exploitation not only stripped the South Asian nations of its textile heritage but also marginalised its skilled artisan populations, whose labour went (and still is) largely unrecognised.

This pattern of cultural erasure is not a new phenomenon. Throughout history, elements of South Asian design have been introduced to the global stage with little regard for their roots, often reimagined under Western labels. The most visible example of this is the term "boho," which, during the 1960s and '70s, became synonymous with free spirited fashion. This period saw certain patterns and styles rooted in South Asian textiles, such as paisleys, mirror work, and beyond textiles jewellery styles as well become mainstream trends. Yet, these very same elements, when worn by South Asians, were once and arguably still are ridiculed or dismissed.

What many people fail to recognise is that South Asian fashion is not just about fabric and colours, it is deeply intertwined with cultural, religious, and historical significance. For example, textile techniques such as zardozi, loom weaving, block printing are all an art passed down through generations, carrying profound cultural meaning. When such elements are appropriated for fashion’s sake, devoid of their context, it dishonours those who crafted them and those who wear them with deep reverence and purpose. Their history is diluted, their values commodified, and their creators overlooked.

This historical irony is more than a matter of fashion; it reflects a broader power imbalance. It’s not simply about who gets to wear these styles, it’s about who has the privilege of wearing them without facing prejudice or discrimination. South Asians within the diaspora can recall the judgement for wearing traditional attire. Yet, when the same motifs are repackaged by Western designers or worn by global celebrities, they are often celebrated as avant-garde or "trendsetting."

This stark contrast reveals an uncomfortable truth; cultural appropriation isn’t just about the theft of aesthetics; it’s about the unequal distribution of cultural capital. When Western designers profit off the visual language of South Asian culture without acknowledging or compensating South Asian creators, it reinforces a system the fashion industry idealises the beauty of South Asian designs while neglecting the very people and cultures that birthed them.

Fashion, in an ideal world, should be a celebration of diversity, it should be a bridge connecting the beautiful art of the world rather than a wall only allowed some people in. When pieces of a culture are taken without credit, they are reduced to mere trends, stripped of their rich history, identity, and significance. To create meaningful, lasting change in the industry, we must begin to see fashion for what it truly is: a reflection of the people, cultures, and communities behind it. It is essential for fashion enthusiasts, industry leaders, and consumers alike to intentionally recognise, credit, and support the talented creators who shape the garments they admire.